Central Lithuania is a strange brew. More of an accidental stopover point en route to somewhere else rather than a destination in itself, this large flat area is invariably written off as dull and short on vision. Yet it proffers a couple of Lithuania's most bizarre and blackest sights.

Three cities form a neat triangle. Complacent Kaunas, primary kick-off point for central-country forays, still rides on its sterling reputation as alternative Lithuanian capital during the interwar period when Vilnius was part of Poland. And indeed, it's got a great palace to prove it presidential past. But, say critics, Kaunas must brush up and progress if it wants to stay in today's EU-driven game. The exciting arrival of no-frills budget airline Ryanair to Kaunas in September 2005, not to mention the hoards of Brits it brings on the cheap, could be the catalyst.